Today, I’m sharing my local’s guide to Brighton, the buzzy creative city on England’s south coast, and also my hometown for the past 20 years.
If like me you enjoy finding out where locals eat, drink, shop and hang out when you’re planning a trip, this guide to Brighton is for you.
It’s pretty much a list of all the advice and things to do in Brighton I’d give to a friend if they asked me for travel tips.
I’ve lived in Brighton since the early 2000s (yikes!) and started my site six years ago by sharing secret places in Brighton to visit and stories on enjoying Brighton like a local. These are Ellie & Co’s USPs.
A few months later, a publisher asked to write the bestselling guidebook, Secret Brighton. So I guess you can say I know Brighton extremely well!
Brighton has changed a lot since I moved here – but in a good way. Back when Brighton and Hove were separate towns, it was mostly all hippy shops and grungy pubs. So many restaurants weren’t worth talking about and no one cared much for hot new hangouts.
Now it’s a thriving city, but it still has alternative small-town charm, and many of the original indie shops still thrive, but honestly, most have made way for artisan cafés, cool fashion boutiques – and new restaurants I actually want to recommend.
A Local’s travel guide to brighton
Rather than an overarching round-up, this local’s guide to Brighton features my personal favourite places to go to for coffee, a drink after work, dinner, to shop for gifts, a culture fix, along with twists on visiting the big-ticket tourist sights.
I also offer ideas for escaping the crowds, the best day trips from Brighton and things to do in Sussex if you want to explore further.
I update this guide every month so you can guarantee everything in this post is current. If you notice something missing, feel free to add your suggestions in the comments section or send me an email.
Where is Brighton?
Brighton is located on England’s south coast, approximate 1.5 hours from London by train or car. It’s framed by the choppy English Channel and rolling hills of the South Downs National Park to the north.
What is Brighton known for?
To sum it up, Brighton, together with neighbouring Hove, is a buzzy coastal city of 300,000-plus inhabitants. It’s well known for its off-beat, inclusive vibe, sustainable focus, LGBTQ+ culture and artisan, creative and student communities which give the city its unique, independent spirit.
It has an exciting food scene that I’m thrilled to share now rivals London’s with lots of young chefs doing exciting things. Gone are the days of schlepping to the Big Smoke for a special dinner!
It’s also well known for its live music scene, the city peppered with plenty of independent venues for watching gigs. There are even several recording studios, including one underground in an old toilet (I talk about here).
If you’re thinking of making a move, Brighton is a fun, creative place to live, easily walkable. It’s the perfect choice if you or want somewhere to be yourself without judgement, need to dust off the London cobwebs, or get out of a small town or village.
Best time to visit Brighton
Brighton has something to offer year-round. May is one of the best times in the city. The days are starting to get longer and the city comes alive as the setting for several festivals.
The Brighton Festival and the Brighton Fringe run side-by-side, for the chance to see performances from comedy shows to mini plays at various venues, pop-up and permanent, around town.
The Artists Open Houses event is the opportunity to browse art and snoop around locals’ homes at the same time. Musicwise, The Great Escape festival takes place over three days and hosts hundreds of bands at various venues across town. There are often surprise gigs from big-name acts, too.
September is also a great time to visit when the autumn, when the summer crowds have died down, the weather is usually pleasant and mild and the changing leaves are giving the city a different character.
It’s also in time for the Brighton Cocktail Festival. For £20, you get to spend 10 days hopping around 40 of Brighton’s most unique bars sipping bespoke off-menu cocktail creations that cost just £6 each, and £4 for non-alcoholic options.
A short history of Brighton
Brighton started life in the 1500s as a humble fishing village filled with little cottages, some of them still standing. It prospered in the late 1700s when George VI, the Prince Regent, built the Royal Pavilion as his Regency party palace, which attracted wealthy city dwellers to its shores.
To cater for this new clientele, two architects built Brighton’s most desirable estates, still thriving today: Thomas Kemp of the Kemptown estate and Charles Busby of Brunswick Town on the border of Brighton and Hove to the west of town. The city further boomed when the London to Brighton railway line was built.
In 2000, Brighton together with Hove was given city status and in 2017, Brighton and Hove Albion made the Premier League.
Things to do in Brighton
enjoy Brighton Beach like a local
If you’re planning to visit Brighton, there’s a high chance you’ll want to hang out at the beach. I suggest starting with a brisk dip in the sea near Kemptown before warming up at the OG Beach Box Sauna Spa (£30 for a 90-minute session) or the Luna Hut nearby (£8 for a 30-minute session).
You’ll feel refreshed and ready for a coffee at Scandi-inspired cafe, Fika Beach, before a seafood lunch (the Copper Clam near The Shelter Hall (see my pick of the ‘best restaurants in Brighton’ below) leaving time for a boat trip out to Rampion Wind Farm (£40 for a two-hour ride).
Insider tip: If you want to hang out on the beach but don’t like crowds in summer, avoid the stretch between the Palace Pier and the charred remains of the West Pier which heaves on sunny days.
Instead, make a beeline for quieter shores at Hove Lawns or Kemptown. I’ve written about hidden beaches close to Brighton if you want to escape further.
Follow a Self-guided Hidden Brighton walk
In lockdown I put together a popular series of hidden Brighton walks that went viral on Instagram. Each one takes you on a peaceful stroll around one of several Brighton neighbourhoods fringing the busy city centre.
These Brighton neighbourhoods are often overlooked for classic seafront haunts or shopping areas. Each has a unique character and hides some of Brighton’s best cafes, pubs, restaurants and architecture.
I’d start with my hidden walk around Seven Dials, a pretty neighbourhood near Brighton station, with its weekend café culture and conservation area, moving on to Brunswick Town on the Hove border a block from the seafront.
Leave time for shopping-heaven North Laine before wandering over to historic Kemptown for an early evening pint at the Hand in Hand followed by a juicy steak burger, fries and a glass of red at the independent family-run gastro pub, Busby and Wilds.
Go Gallery hopping in Brighton
Brighton is a well-known artists’ enclave and is packed with galleries which are fun to hop around. My favourites are Fabrica, in a former chapel, which hosts three contemporary art shows a year, and the Phoenix Gallery which hosts 12 free shows a year in two huge spaces, and has a cool coffee bar.
Some of the studios here also open up to the public in May and November Brighton as part of the Artists’ Open Houses event. To browse art outside, it’s fun to find the novel Dog and Bone Gallery set inside two old red London phone boxes in Seven Dials. There’s also Anna’s Museum, a mini natural history museum in a shopfront window.
Movie night in a vintage Picturehouse
Brighton has several cinemas but none more beautiful and nostalgic than the single-screen Duke of York’s in the edgy London Road neighbourhood, near this tiny East African, Gujarati and Ismaili restaurant, Kitgum.
The Picturehouse opened in the 1900s and still has its original façade and black-white-checkerboard flooring at the entrance.
It’s still going strong, thanks to a loyal local following. It used to specialise in niche arthouse films and documentaries but it now shows a curated pick of mainstream films.
Watch the murmuration
You might have heard me say: “I would rather be punched in the face than go on Brighton’s Palace Pier in peak summer”. Now, I’ve found a far more peaceful and interesting way to enjoy it, which also makes a romantic winter experience.
Grab a hot chocolate from Knoops then stroll arm-in-arm to the Palace Pier at dusk between November and March to be captivated by the sight of the city’s starling population coming together to perform their murmuration dance overhead. It goes on for about an hour and is magical. It’s one of my favourite cheap things to do in Brighton.
find secret Brighton
Like I said, hunting for hidden treasures in Brighton is how my website began, so my secret Brighton archives are a good place to start if you want to go off-the-beaten path, away from the crowds.
For a secret Brighton distraction mid-shopping-spree around Western Road, make a detour towards the pretty Upper North Street to discover Anna’s Museum, an old shop window filled with curious pieces of natural history.
Thousands of visitors come to enjoy Preston Park every year, but few know that hidden away in the rock garden opposite – one of the city’s best-kept secrets in itself – is a magical waterfall.
WHERE TO EAT In Brighton
People often ask me to recommend places to eat in Brighton – especially those independent neighbourhood favourite cafes and restaurants.
I’ve already written about restaurants both romantic and no-frills, cosy cafes, tea rooms and independent pubs. Here’s a pick of a few favourites we go back to time and again, some for a quick bite, a splurge and, of course, fish and chips:
Breakfast and brunch in brighton
There are so many cafes in Brighton. Café Rust has a rustic French farmhouse vibe, does excellent coffee, pretty cakes and classic brunch dishes like eggs florentine, and a few twists like Çılbır, a Turkish classic of poached eggs.
Another favourite is Marmalade, a stylish cafe and shop with a Parisian vibe, on the fringes of Kemptown. It’s known for its counter stuffed with sandwiches and pastries and shelves filled with gourmet treats.
For a classic, no-frills Full English, this timewarp corner café a block from the sea is the best bet. They do fry-ups in every combination imaginable, as well as bubble and squeak, pie and mash, fish and chips, tea in mugs, rolls, toast, omelettes – that kind of thing.
fish and chips in Brighton
When it comes to fish and chips in Brighton, where to get the best is a hot debate. One of my favourite spots is the city’s oldest: Bardsley’s of Baker Street opened in 1926, its dining room full of memorabilia relating to an old Brighton vaudeville star, Max Miller.
Bankers on Western Road on the east end of Hove also has a little dining room and serves portions huge. For takeaway, I like Wolfies in Hove, and Chippy Chips on Victoria Terrace near Hove Lawns.
Some of the best Brighton restaurants
Bincho Yakitori
I cannot live without Bincho Yakitori, a perma-packed tiny inexpensive Japanese tapas restaurant that makes you feel like you’ve been transported to Toyko. It serves delicious and inexpensive small plates made for sharing, cooked as ordered and served when they’re ready.
It also does the world’s best kara age (fried chicken). The vibe is buzzy and fun and it’s a great for all occasions – date night, catch up with friends, solo dinner, or family celebration.
Insider tip: Since it won several awards, it’s essential to reserve ahead for a table here.
Wild Flor
Wild Flor in Hove is one of the city’s newest neighbourhood gem restaurants, which just keeps getting better. They have a relaxed candlelit upstairs dining room, perfect for date night.
The classic menu is a mix of decadent (pappardelle of glazed pig cheek, peas and aged parmesan; rhubarb and cardamom custard mille-feuille), and light and lively dishes (Cornish crab, pink grapefruit and celery; Saddlescombe lamb, apricot, saffron and lambs lettuce).
The wine list is epic and they now do a £25 set lunch menu of favourite dishes, including their famous Madeleines to finish. Other nearby restaurants for a splurge are the Little Fish Market hidden along a Hove backstreet and The Gingerman, I talk about here.
Shelter Hall
Brighton’s first-ever covered food hall, Shelter Hall is set inside a transformed old waiting room built in 1888. Inside, it’s a gleaming contemporary space with high ceilings and statement-tiled floors, high stools around wooden tables.
It’s home to seven kitchens and two bars, brimming with helpful, smiling staff who are on hand to usher hot plates of Neapolitan pizza and Vietnamese-inspired bao to your sea view table.
Where to drink in Brighton
Ten green bottles
Sleek wine bars are few and far between in Brighton. You’ll find Ten Green Bottles oddly sandwiched between a Mexican restaurant and dermatology specialists opposite the library.
It’s based on the idea of the enotecas in Italy: small, friendly places where you can have a glass of wine, some good cheese, and walk away with a bottle recommended by the owner.
Plateau
For a sophisticated French cafe-bistro-wine-bar not far from the seafront, Plateau is great. It has a sleek informal downstairs dining room which gets loud, and a quieter one upstairs.
It’s good for power lunches, laid-back lunches, a mid-shopping-spree pitstop, cocktails before a night out, dinner with friends, date night…
The food is modern French. They do little dishes to share: the shishito peppers work well with a spicy margharita before the tucking into bavette steak with frites and rocket.
Hand in Hand pub
This colourful pub, the Hand in Hand, in Kemptown village is special. The walls and ceilings are crammed with random decorations, including ties pinned to the beams, ceramic beer mugs, and all kinds of pictures.
There’s a piano, a box for playing the Sussex pub game, Toad in the Hole (you have to throw metal discs into a hole on the top of the box), and they do jazz nights on a Sunday.
Its piece de resistance is its microbrewery – the Hand Brew Co – which claims to be the UK’s smallest working tower brewery. It’s where they make their range of unusual beers like toasted coconut porter, cocoa nib, and oat-filled breakfast stout. On the right day, you might even bag a tour.
WHERE TO SHOP IN BRIGHTON
Wolf and Gypsy
For vintage pieces that reflect modern styles – think 90s crinkle tops, 70s smock dresses, 80s neon dresses – Wolf and Gypsy is winning. They also sell new pieces including tie-die sweatshirts and pyjamas, as well as homewares.
It’s always fun to walk past their window displays, too, which change with the seasons or reflect events or things going on in the news.
Audrey’s Chocolates
Set in a Hove townhouse, this marvellous time-capsule chocolate shop, Audrey’s, has its roots in the 1920s. Outside, the façade is humble and inside it looks as it did when the shop opened in 1961 by Mr William Pain – all panelled in oak, carpeted in red, with old 1960s glass cabinets full of handmade chocolates – all made on-site in the upstairs chocolate factory.
Hi Cacti
A little browse in Hi Cacti, a colourful cactus shop, takes you to Seven Dials. This is Brighton’s only shop specialising in cacti, and easy-care houseplants and it’s run by the lovely Sabine Palermo who started it when she moved to England from Austin, Texas – which explains the Tex-Mex meets Palm Springs vibes inside. If you’re having a bad day and arrive here sad, you will leave full of inspiration and cheer.
Brighton Flea Market
Snoopers Paradise in North Laine is an amazing vintage flea market, but it gets seriously busy, especially at the weekend. Brighton Flea Market is a much quieter option in Kemptown across town with the same mix of vintage finds to browse spread across two huge floors – think antique glassware, 1970s bookcases, crockery, artwork, mirrors, and more. It’s also an excuse to grab a coffee at the Marmalade Store.
Where to stay in Brighton
Brighton has no shortage of great hotels for every budget, so the hardest part is picking which one is right for you. I live in Brighton but if I were to spend the weekend here, I’d want to wake up either facing the sea, or in a cute, quiet local neighbourhood that huddles the centre – like Seven Dials, Kemptown, or Brunswick Town that feels less chaotic, and have little neighbourhood restaurants and bars. Here are some to think about:
No 124 by Guesthouse
Brighton’s latest boutique hotel, No 124 by Guesthouse, opened to much buzz and fanfare in autumn 2024 and is still going strong. I love it for many reasons, particularly its setting within two well-preserved Regency townhouses opposite the West Pier for easy access to central Brighton.
Classically-styled cream-toned rooms look and feel plush and are kitted out with accessories like Crossley record players. The best rooms are suites with French doors onto sea-view balconies.
It’s also home to a cocktail lounge, a terrace serving wood-fired pizzas, a winter garden, and a decadent secret Brighton restaurant, The Pearly Cow.
The Grand
The Grand is the city and seafront’s dominant hotel – its location practically defines the centre of the city, and its ornate facade is synonymous with Brighton’s seafront.
Up until recently it was a little faded at the edges, but after a recent makeover, is once again one of the city’s best places for five-star luxury in Brighton.
What I loved most about my stay was the lavish buffet breakfast served in a huge ballroom with high ceilings.
Artist Residence
This is the Brighton hotel I recommend most. It’s a playful, stylish and good value (a double costs from £85/night including breakfast). It’s cool without being pretentious and homely at the same time. It also feels like you’re staying at your stylish artist friend or eccentric relative’s house.
The eclectic lounge and dining rooms have comfy vintage armchairs and a big rustic table where you can work on a computer, meet friends for a drink (they have a bar) or just relax. They also have a separate apartment downstairs if you want to stay with your kids or friends.
Oriental Brighton
The Oriental on Oriental Place is another good-value hotel set in a beautiful Regency townhouse near the West Pier. It’s close to cafes, restaurants (like The Gingerman I talk about here), and is centrally located for getting around town easily.
The rooms are clean, comfortable and cheap (doubles are £100 a night in summer – but they will beat any internet rates you find if you call them).
I love that there’s a basket of old-fashioned sweets in each room. There’s also a tiny bar for cockails and board games. I recommend the Oriental: lychee liqueur and vodka with a dash of Tabasco.
Rent an Airbnb in Brighton
To save money and live like a local in the city, my post on unique AirBnBs in Brighton lists places to stay for all budgets in all the different areas of Brighton: Seven Dials, Fiveways, Kemptown, and Brunswick in Hove, since these Brighton neighbourhoods are central.
For something different, this houseboat just outside Brighton looks cosy.
Best time to visit Brighton
I recommend visiting Brighton in the springtime before the summer holiday crowds take over, or in early autumn when the leaves start to change colour but it’s not too cold yet.
Getting around Brighton
Brighton and Hove together make a small and walkable city, so don’t be afraid to explore on foot. That’s my favourite way to see the city and the best way to appreciate the architecture and smaller details you miss in a car. However, it’s also easy to get around by bike, bus, taxi or Uber.
DAY TRIPS FROM BRIGHTON
If you’re visiting for more than a few days, you might want to go further afield so here are 6 day trips I highly recommend. I also suggest places to visit in Sussex not far from Brighton, such as little-known wineries, under-the-radar villages to hop around and off-the-beaten path country pubs with incredible gardens and campsites closest to Brighton.
FINAL TIPS
If you find yourself in Brighton in bad weather, here are my tips for things to do in Brighton in the rain. Remember Brighton is by the sea so tends to get windy so bring layers to wear.
Brighton is filled with cycle lanes so don’t walk on them if you can – it annoys the locals!
Avoid West Street, the main road running from the seafront up to the clocktower, especially in the evenings. It’s lined with chain pubs and gets rowdy.
If you want more inspiration, I have a hunch these books will get you in the mood.
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7 Comments
AH! Reading this just made me miss Brighton so much! I’ve only been twice but I am craving a trip and can’t wait to go back!
Hope you can get back soon!
What a fantastic guide and as always incredible photos!
Thanks!
I’ve lived in Brighton all my life and you’ve so many of my favourite places listed here. Don’t forget the Duke of York’s cinema – the best cinema ever.
Yes, of course. Thanks for the reminder! It’s my favourite cinema too.
Great travel guide!