People often describe Hove as Brighton’s grown-up sister, but what I love most about Central Hove is the sense of space.
The grand Regency terraces, wide avenues lined with elegant townhouses and expansive windswept seafront squares are a welcome escape from the intensity of Brighton’s compact city centre.
Whenever I’m in the centre of town, one of my favourite things is to escape on a walk to Hove along Western Road and feel the stress melt away. As the crowds thin out and the streets widen, the pace of life slows down, too.
At its heart is Brunswick Town, a remarkable Regency estate whose handsome architecture stretches from Brunswick Square to the seafront.
It’s also home to one of the city’s best cultural venues, The Old Market, and one of the city’s finest independent bookshops.
Central Hove: A Neighbourhood Guide
As much as I love Kemptown, another fascinating historic neighbourhood on the seafront, I often find myself drawn to Central Hove when I’m craving a slower-paced afternoon by the sea.
Both Brighton neighbourhoods are built around beautiful Regency estates, but while Kemptown buzzes with independent shops, cafés and nightlife, Central Hove feels calmer, with grand avenues, elegant squares and room to slow down, look up and admire the architecture.
Whether you’re visiting for a few hours or a long weekend, this Hove travel guide features my local tips, favourite places and neighbourhood finds in the neighbourhood.
I’ve also included all my recommendations in a map at the end of the post. Let’s explore!
This post was originally written in March 2023 but has since been updated to keep it fresh.
Things to do in Hove
Follow a Self-guided Hidden Hove Walk
I recommend getting your bearings on my self-guided hidden walk around Brunswick Town. It’s part of a popular series of hidden Brighton walks I designed during lockdown that went viral on Instagram.
It starts on Western Road near an excellent Brighton-based French bakery, The Real Patisserie, for treats: grab one of their buttery croissants, a coffee and you’re ready.
It’s easy to spend a lazy morning or afternoon doing this walk, wandering and weaving up and down any of the streets in between.
Find my hidden walk around Brunswick Town here and the whole series here.
Cycle along the seafront from hove lawns
Navigating the city on two wheels is a fun and cheap Brighton adventure. On Brunswick Street East is a shop called G Whizz Cycles with second-hand bikes for rent at good prices.
Saddle up, and you’re only minutes from the seafront with its cycle path that stretches almost six miles from Hove Lagoon to Brighton Marina.
Alternatively, this interactive Brighton cycling map lets you plan your preferred city journey, from an off-road adventure to a child-friendly route, and add in stops at various facilities along the way.
Step back in time at the regency townhouse
Hove is home to several historic seafront squares, including Brunswick Square. It was originally lined with single-family homes, most of which have now been converted into flats – except Number 13.
This is known as The Regency Town House, which the owner is slowly restoring using traditional techniques and is open for tours and events throughout the year.
Find The Regency Townhouse at 13 Brunswick Square, Brighton BN3 1EH
Where to eat in Hove
Oeuf
Renowned breakfast and brunch dishes with playful twists are hallmarks of Oeuf, a consistently popular pastel-coloured paradise on a grand Hove avenue.
Naturally, eggs in all varieties are menu mainstays. Think: Oeuf Benedict, Oeuf Troyale and Oeuf and Turf, alongside other classic options like the Oeuf full English and smashed avocado on sourdough.
It’s also the spiritual home of the Frumpet, a stack of three French toast buttered crumpets, topped with various savoury and sweet concoctions like avocado and chilli jam, melty Cheddar, chive and spinach and dark chocolate meringue and walnut butter.
Personally, I like to go wild and order the honey butter, chipotle, fried chicken waffle, with buttermik chicken thigh, kewpie mayo, crispy chicken skin and a fried egg.
Find Oeuf at 8 Third Avenue, Hove BN3 2PX
Maré
Hove’s newest restaurant is destined for stardom and proves fine dining needn’t be stuffy. The simple exterior and muted dining room whisper of quiet luxury, leaving the exceptional food to shine.
Every bite is Michelin-star worthy, from the toasted brioche, piped with liver parfait and topped with tiny pieces of preserved cherries and winter truffle, to the beautifully presented fried oysters drizzled in hot sauce.
Service is exceptional, too, and you can expect a lively playlist of classics from Duran Duran and Queen to Bowie and Don Henley.
Find Maré at 60 Church Road, Hove BN3 2FP
Unithai
I like to call this the city’s secret Thai restaurant as it’s hidden at the back of an Asian supermarket. The dining room feels like you’re in someone’s Thailand home complete with pictures of the Thai king and gold trinkets everywhere!
The service is fast and no-nonsense and for about £20-£25, two people can tuck into a king-size feast of two main dishes and two sides leaving you with full tummies. It’s also BYO.
Find Unithai at 10 Church Road, Hove BN3 2FL
Wild Flor
This small neighbourhood gem restaurant was the talk of the city when it opened in May 2019. With enthusiasm and creativity, they weathered the Pandemic and they keep getting better.
There’s a smart, buzzy downstairs dining room, and another upstairs, more quiet and bathed in candlelight come evening. I like the window seat for two up here.
Light, lively and decadent classic European dishes make up the small, seasonal a la carte and set menus. Think: Jersey rock oysters, smoked mackerel rillettes and beetroot, braised blade of beef, bourguignon sauce and parsnip purée.
Find Wild Flor at 42 Church Road, Hove BN3 2FN
The Little Fish Market
Hidden on a Hove backstreet is one of my favourite romantic Brighton restaurants for a splurgy dinner. It serves exceptional five-course tasting menus to no more than 20 diners in its cosy dining room.
The service is impeccable and even though you know what’s coming – dishes are chalked on a blackboard – it’s still a fun surprise when they arrive. If you’re feeling fancy, you can pay extra to have a different wine with each course.
Find The Little Fish Market at 10 Upper Market Street, Hove BN3 1AS
Where to drink in Hove
The Well
Everyone’s favourite Brighton tap room and bar has a sister in Palmeira Square. Like its Kemptown sibling, natural wines, craft ale, vintage décor and vinyl – staff play records on two turntables at the bar – are its hallmarks, attracting a cool crowd into its airy, art-filled space and onto slouchy second-hand sofas.
What I love love most is how they describe the wines on the simple, changing menu: ‘juicy Spanish red’ or ‘zingy French white’. So much more useful than the brand name and year, in my opinion, unless you’re a wine buff.
Find The Well at 77-78 Western Road, Palmeira Square, Brighton BN3 2JQ
The Paris House
There are a couple of French bars in town, but this is the most eclectic. There’s a dark wood bar, a checkerboard floor and black-and-white photos of French greats decorating the walls.
Order a carafe of red, a meat or cheese board and settle in for some gypsy jazz and people-watching.
Find The Paris House at 21 Western Road, Hove BN3 1AF
Lion and Lobster
Spread across four floors, a wander around this side-street pub is an adventure in itself. There are two Regency dining rooms, two bars, each one full of nooks, booths and crannies perfect for cosying up in winter, and two outside terraces.
The décor is traditional pub meets vintage shop: there’s lots of rich mahogany panelling and furniture, dark red carpets, framed old maps and historical pictures on walls, and candles in bottles on tables.
Find the Lion and Lobster at 24 Sillwood Street, Brighton BN1 2PS
Salvage cafe
No two visits here are the same because it’s filled with antique and flea market finds that you can buy. Order a nice pot of tea – there are 100s to choose from in glass jars on the counter – a coffee, a hearty breakfast of pancakes, perhaps?
Or maybe a toasted bagel for lunch, settle in and let your eyes wander around all the curios. It’s the perfect environment for letting go, coming up with your next idea for life… Jazz music and a little chatter from the locals at the bar fill the air…
Find Salvage Cafe at 84 Western Road, Hove BN3 1JB
Where to shop in Hove
Audrey’s Chocolates
Old-fashioned dark-wood cabinets filled with tempting trays of handmade chocolates line two walls of Brighton’s nostalgic time-capsule sweet shop carpeted in red and set in a Hove townhouse with a sophisticated window display and a striped canopy.
The shop dates back to the 1960s and supplies fancy London food emporium, Fortum and Mason with chocolates. Who knew! Favourites? The violet and rose creams, and the brandy-soaked cherries only available at Christmas.
Find Audrey’s Chocolates at 28 Holland Road, Hove BN3 1JJ
City Books
This unpretentious local favourite opened in the mid-1980s. It’s unique for its extensive selection of local interest books, two of which – Secret Brighton and Secret Sussex – you may have heard of, ahem.
It’s also renowned for its literary evenings with well-known guest speakers, such as Brighton local Nick Cave and others like Jo Brand, Ranulph Fiennes and Caitlin Moran.
Find City Books at 23 Western Road, Hove, BN3 1AF
Where to stay near central Hove
If you’re planning an overnight stay, my favourite Brighton hotel within walking distance of Central Hove is Artist Residence.
Technically in Brighton rather than Hove, it’s only a short walk from Brunswick Town and the seafront. This independent boutique hotel combines quirky interiors, local artwork and plenty of character, making it a perfect base for exploring both Brighton and Hove.
Read my full review of Artist Residence Brighton here.
Getting to Central Hove
Central Hove is easy to reach on foot from Brighton city centre. I often walk from the Clock Tower area along Western Road, which takes around 20 to 30 minutes depending on how many cafés and shops distract me along the way.
If you’re travelling from further afield, Hove Station is around a one hour journey from London and a 15-minute walk to the seafront.
Several bus routes also run between Brighton city centre and Hove throughout the day.
central Hove map
Find a useful map of Central Hove things to do, independent shops and nearby addresses of note below and here.
If you want more inspiration, my secret guidebooks will get you excited.
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