If you read this post, you’ll know I’ve launched a new series called hidden Brighton walks. Each walk involves snooping around the backstreets of a different Brighton and Hove neighbourhood, away from crowds. You can walk the routes in any season, or when the mood takes you. They’re self-guided, with fun facts to read along the way and a map including useful addresses.
So far, we’ve explored the backstreets of Seven Dials and Brunswick Town in Hove. Today, we’re exploring Hanover, a compact, hilly neighbourhood on the east side of Brighton not far from Kemptown, with a buzzy, friendly atmosphere, popular with couples, groups and families. It’s full of colourful terraced houses, a handful of shops, a few cafes, the odd takeaway and a huge concentration of pubs. Follow me!
Hidden Brighton walks: Hanover
I tend to start with a snoop along Hanover Crescent, at the bottom of Elm Grove just opposite The Level park. This is one of Brighton’s hidden streets, most people tend to walk past without a glance on their way to Hanover or into town. There are 24 houses in the row, with two little lodges at either end. Fun fact: The street even has its own website and committee!Once you’ve finished imagining what it would be like to live here, it’s time to move on. Walk about half way up Elm Grove and turn right onto Milton Road – you’ll see the Hilly Laine organic food shop on the corner, and start to meander from here up and around.
There are so many little streets squished into this little area, lined with row upon row of pastel-coloured cottages. I particularly love those set on corners, which likely would once have been shops, many of which have been lovingly restored.
As well as renovated corner shops, Hanover is also packed with good pubs. In fact, you could easily plan a Brighton pub crawl around Hanover alone. There’s The Village (pictured at the top of this post), set in a beautiful old historic building with a green-tiled facade that was due to be turned into flats. It’s more of a café-bar-pub, and it opened in 2015. Inside, it’s decked out in thrift shop furniture, feels cosy and serves all-day brunches, pub classics and drinks.
The Dover Castle is another relaxed place and does good roasts, The Geese is good for live music. There’s The Constant Service which I’ve not been to but looks interesting from the outside. Oh, and let’s not forget this pub with its sunset view terrace.
Being the nerd that I am, while I was wandering, I noticed three streets named after Canadian cities -Montreal, Toronto, Quebec. I also spotted the Montreal Arms – funnily enough on Montreal Road – with a similar tiled facade to The Village, although way less inviting. I can’t help wondering what the connection is, and am yet to find this out. Stay tuned!Cafe-wise, as well as The Village and the Hilly Laine deli, there’s a little place called Wild Cherry up on Queen’s Park Road, which does healthy food like roasted vegetable toasties and lasagne, broccoli and asparagus quiche, creamy soups and rich almond chocolate brownies. It’s a treat after the walk up Albion Hill to get there.
Tummies full, walk west along Queen’s Park Road where you’ll find an architectural curiosity known as the Pepper Pot. No one really knows much about it, except that it might have been an elaborate water tower. On your way towards Kemptown, you’ll pass St Luke’s Swimming Baths, the only Victorian swimming baths in the city. It’s also open to the public.
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3 Comments
I’m following you on IG and decided to check out your blog after seeing the picture of The Village pub in Hanover you shared – I’m thinking of doing the Hanover walk this weekend. Thanks for posting it.
The green tiles are the livery of the Portsmouth and Brighton United Brewery. Spot them across Brighton (The Heart and Hand and the Rosehill are two others) and Portsmouth http://breweryhistory.com/wiki/index.php?title=Portsmouth_%26_Brighton_United_Breweries_Ltd
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