For the last part of our Croatian adventure, we floated onto the island of Korcula, known as ‘little Dubrovnik’ for its pretty walled town. Here, we explored more cobbled alleyways, hiked to an amazing hilltop restaurant, chilled on the beach and drank delicious wine at a local bar.
We stayed in another perfect old-stone cottage we nabbed for just 45 Euros a night on Air BnB. Our host – Ana – gives us an introduction and toasts our arrival with some delicious homemade lemon liqueur (from the large bottle left in the fridge for guests).
She tells us it’s market day in the square so we set off to get our bearings in search of sustenance.
…before hunting down the town’s renowned bakery, a fascinating little place called <Cukarin just outside the old town walls, whose female owner is certainly one tough lady, baking delicious traditional cakes and biscuits herself, each and every day.
When it comes to eating out, there are a few nice places in the old town (Filippe to name the best) but we discovered the best place on a hike 11km out of town in a sleepy little village called Pupnat.
On the way, we hit a storm so take shelter under a canopy in the grounds of Konoba Grubinjac, a hilltop farmhouse restaurant we stumble upon my accident surrounded by lush vineyards with a mesmerising view out over the hills down to the coast and Korcula Town.
Onwards, we pass though a tiny deserted-looking town (it’s not…) full of curious-looking houses before we hit the hiking trail.
A couple of hours and a rusty old Renault Four later (they’re de rigour over here), we reach our destination! The town of Pupnat, home to Konoba Mate, a family-run restaurant serving thoughtful wholesome food made with produce they grow themselves. It’s maybe one of the best restaurants I’ve ever been to. In the whole world.
Could this be the prettiest food you’ve ever seen?
Early evening back in Korcula Town, we head to Vinum Bonum, a teeny tiny dive-y wine bar hidden up a narrow alleyway outside the old town, serving more of that excellent Croatian wine for around £1 a glass we’d become accustomed to on this trip, alongside tasty tapas dishes.
We wake up to sun on our last day so hit the beach town of Lumbarda to feel the sand in our toes and do some kayaking.
Our time on Korcula was short and sweet but it won’t be forgotten. I hope you enjoyed following our journey these last few weeks, and of course, Croatia, we’ll be back very soon!