Seeing as the Ellie & Co team of two have just got back from a fascinating mid-spring Porto city break, including a day trip to the Douro Valley wine region, we thought we’d share some of our curious discoveries.
From an offbeat walking tour and a stay in a historic guesthouse to lunch at a local favourite sandwich shop, this characterful riverside city offers far more than the wine that made it famous.
1 to Stay in a former antique shop turned guesthouse
Spotting the elegant façade of Maison des Amis on Booking.com was one of the reasons I started planning a trip to Porto.
I love curious and characterful places to stay, especially those with a story to tell, and this beautifully restored guesthouse certainly does.
Set within a traditional Porto townhouse, Maison des Amis strikes a lovely balance between old and new. When I first visited almost a decade ago, rooms cost around £70 a night; today, you’re looking at closer to £150, a reflection of both Porto’s popularity and the quality of the experience.
There are just four rooms, each one light, airy and effortlessly stylish, combining carefully chosen antiques with contemporary design touches.
The lovely owner, Isabel, told us the house once belonged to her grandfather, a furniture maker who used it as his showroom. After the business closed, the building sat empty for years, gradually gathering dust.
Then Isabel quit her teaching job and, together with her architect sister, set about bringing it back to life. The result is a magical guesthouse filled with their grandfather’s handmade furniture, where every room feels connected to the family’s story.
This was our gigantic city-view room… each morning you could look down from the balcony and see the old trams rattling past.
We were the only guests on our first night and had the house entirely to ourselves. Each morning, a generous breakfast spread was laid out in the light-filled dining room, which overlooks the pretty garden – the perfect place to ease into the day before heading out to explore Porto.
If you’re looking for a place to stay with genuine character and a story behind it, I can’t recommend Maison des Amis highly enough. I wouldn’t hesitate to stay there again.
2 To take an alternative walking tour
It doesn’t take long after arriving in Porto to notice the sorry state of many of the city’s beautiful tiled houses.
More than anything, I was struck by the number of stunning abandoned buildings. Behind crumbling façades and boarded-up windows were some of the most beautiful properties I’d ever seen.
To discover the city’s abandoned and overlooked heart, consider joining a tour with The Worst Tours – yes, that really is their name.
Run by three local architects, these alternative walking tours shine a light on derelict buildings, forgotten corners and unsung neighbourhoods, revealing a side of Porto that many visitors never see.
Along the way, you’ll learn how economic change, migration and regeneration have shaped the city, often through the stories hidden behind crumbling façades. One of the tours even includes a visit to an abandoned village tucked away in the urban landscape.
3 to Go Azulejo tile hunting
To be fair, you don’t have to hunt too hard to find these delightful scenes. Porto is dotted with buildings adorned with azulejos, the decorative ceramic tiles that have become one of the most recognisable features of Portuguese architecture.
The Capela das Almas on Rua de Santa Catarina (above) is one of Porto’s most photographed landmarks. Clad in more than 15,000 blue-and-white azulejo tiles, the chapel’s exterior depicts scenes from the lives of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Catherine.
I love how it contrasts with the bustle of the surrounding shopping street – you have no idea how long I waited to capture this shot without people in it!
For more tile-spotting, I also loved stepping inside São Bento railway station often described as one of the most beautiful train stations in Europe. I mean look at it!
Its vast entrance hall is lined with thousands of azulejos illustrating key moments in Portuguese history, from royal events to rural life.
Even if you’re not catching a train, it’s worth popping in to admire the artwork and soak up the atmosphere.
4 Shop for cool Portuguese souvenirs
A wander along Rua do Almada is a good place to start; a long uphill street filled with pop-up shops and design shops, like this one called Workshops Pop Up, stocking plenty of traditional Portuguese products like cushions and rugs, all really well priced, as well as pottery and the colourful tins of fish you see all around.
A bit further along the street you’ll find Casa Almada, a treasure-trove of delightful mid-century design pieces all crammed into a beautiful townhouse, a peek outside the back revealing a view over the crumbling Porto rooftops.
5 To try the world’s best pork rolls from a honest food gem
I honestly believe that some of the best food around the world comes from the most unassuming hole-in-the-wall places, like this gem we discovered wandering Porto’s streets.
Called Casa Guedes, turns out it’s well-known across the city for its delicious pork rolls. I promise you, all other pulled pork creations are imposters once you’ve tasted one from this honest food gem.
The crispy brown rolls are warm straight from the oven, and packed full of succulent meat that simply melts in the mouth when you bite in.
Insider tip: This place is so popular, it’s not unusual for the queue to snake out the door and around the corner every day, so I’d highly recommend getting two when you go in, just in case you want more and don’t want to queue!
6 to Enjoy wine tasting in a train station
The little town of Piñhao was our first stop on a day trip to the Duoro wine region, about 1.5 hours out of Porto. You can arrive by train here, but our rental car was waiting outside…
Anyway, as well as a photogenic spot, there’s also a wine house attached to the side of the station operating out of the old ticket office and offering tasting and nibbles right on the platform.
Picnic tables line the azulejo tiles overlooking the train tracks and there’s a private room and a museum inside, providing a little background of wine-making in the region since the 19th century – not your typical setting for a wine tasting.
It’s a recent addition to the picturesque station as part of a rehabilitation project by one of the local wineries, Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo. They also have a beautiful hotel on their estate in the hills if you prefer to sleep among the vineyards during your stay in the Douro Valley.
See, There’s so much more to Porto than its famous port!
Porto is so much more than its famous port wine. From historic guesthouses and colourful riverside streets to alternative walking tours and incredible food, it’s a city I’d happily return to again and again.
If you’re planning a visit and wondering how to make the most of your time there, take a look at my two-day Porto itinerary.
And if you’re feeling inspired to book a trip, Voyage Privé regularly features deals on hand-picked hotels and city breaks in Portugal and across Europe.
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5 Comments
I love your travel posts!
Looks amazing els, can't wait to go now – thanks for the tips xx
Thank you Sara for your kind words. They motivate me to carry on writing!
Hope you've booked Miss Opo!
erm no i haven't bugger, will do that now! thanks els x